lanscapes / # 3587-89 ~ real-ism or escape-ism

(embiggenable) ~ iPhone

(embiggenable) ~ iPhone

(embiggenable) ~ iPhone

I HAVE LONG THOUGHT AND BELIEVED THAT ONE of the medium of photography and its apparatus' "problem":, re: acceptance and appreciation as an art form, is also its raison d'etre or its unique characteristic as a visual art. That is, its inherent / intrinsic relationship with/to the real.

From its very inception, the medium has had to deal with the perception that pictures made with a machine were the result of little more than a machanistic-i.e., determined by physical processes alone-activiity which was devoid of any evidence of the "hand of the artist". Therefore, according to a number of national art academies (European) at the time, photography was most certainly not an art. A "craft" perhaps, but most emphatically not an art.

The response from many photo practioners of the era-primarily, 1885 to 1915-to that academic prejudice was the practice of Pictorialism. An approach to the medium which emphasised "the beauty of subject matter and the perfection of composition...", not to mention the physical manipulation of the negative and print, "...rather than the documentation of the world as it is .... [an attempt] to infuse a certain otherworldly feel into the previously non-romantic and starkly objective medium of photography."

Eventually-around the very early 20th century-some photographs began to exhibit photographs which sought to picture the world as it is without "artistic" contrivance. That movement came to prominence in the form of a 1932 exhibition which presented the work of 11 photographers who announced themselves as the F.64 group. A group which "embodied a Modernism aesthetic for straight photography, based on precisely exposed images of natural forms and found objects."

I could continue on the path of writing about the current movement(s)-such neo-pictorialism-in the medium of photography and its apparatus but that's not my objective in this entry. So...back on point, re: the problem with the medium's its inherent / intrinsic relationship with/to the real.

Consider the 3 pictures in this entry. Independent of their artistic merit-whatever that might be-imagine them as paintings-watercolor, oils, et al. Now imagine the photographs on a gallery wall, side-by-side with the paintings of the exact same referent. In fact, paintings made using the photographs as a referential basis for the paintings.

In this imagined scenario, a viewer can choose one version-painting or photograph-of the scene for free. iMo, most viewers would choose the painting based in large part because it looked more like "art" than the photograph. You know the logic... the photograph is "just a picture" / "I could have made that picture", etc. Although, it could be more of a horse race if the photographer had added a lot more art sauce-effect filters, exaggerated sauration / contrast, et al-to the photograph to make it more "art-like", aka: a return to Pictorialism practices.

In my next entry, I venture a ways down the rabbit of perceptual / cultural reasons for why I believe this imagined experiment is true. Aslo, does it matter? / Who cares? And, remember, your thoughts and comments are alway welcomed.

kitchen life / # 3586 ~ the easy way

(embiggenable) • iPhone

blank master page ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

image placed / resized ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

SO, WE COME TO THE LAST OF THE PHOTO BOOK MAKING SECRETS ENTRIES. Hopefully, someone got something out of it. And, as promised, a couple more tips / secrets for your edification....

POD photo book making software can be a pain in the butt to figure and use. However, there is a simple way to make it, well, simple to use. That is, ignore all of the "canned" layout templates and use only the full-bleed-image out to the edges of the page-layout template. Here's how it works for me ....

Once I decide on the size of the book, let's say in ths case 8x8", I create a blank Photoshop file of the same size, 8x8"@200dpi, 16 Bit-FYI (I find 200dpi/resolution to be well more than adequate for excellent printed resolution). Then I set Rulers and drag Snap-To guides-from the VIEW drop-down menu-to define the image size of my pictures on the blank file. Since all of my pictures are square and I want them to be the same size in the same place on each page, this file becomes my "master" page file for the photo book I am making.

Once the master page file is set up, I drag all of the image files for the photo book-using the shift+option keys on the keyboard (MAC) in order to center the image files on the master page file-into the master page file. Each file becomes a separate layer in the master page file. Since all of my image files are square and lets say, in this case, made with my iPhone, the files will all be the same size. I then group all the layers together and-using the EDIT > TRANSFORM tool-size the image layers to fit within my snap-to guides.

I save the file. At this point, I have a master page file with all the pictures for the photo book on separate layers, all the same size and all in the same place on the page. It is now a simple process to create how ever many new blank page files-same size and resolution-needed for each picture page in the photo book and drag and drop-using shift+option keys-each picture layer into a blank page file in order to create uniform, individual picture page files for the photo book.

I save the files as Photoshop files (.PSD) just in case I might want to re-work / adjust an image file. Eventually the files will be copied and saved as JPEG files for upload to the POD source I use to make most of my photo books.

The advantage to creating page files in this manner is that, by selecting the full-bleed page layout in POD book making software, it is a simple matter of just drag-and-drop placement of my files on to pages in just about any POD book making software. It doesn't get any easier than this.

There are 2 other advantages to creating ful-bleed page files in Photoshop .... 1.) you can place as many pictures as you want, at any size you want, in any place you want, on a page. It is all up to you, not up to the software on a POD site. 2.) you can place as much type as you want on a page, any place you want, any typeface you want, any size you want and any color you want. This is especially useful for cover design. Just use the TYPE tool in Photoshop.

So, it would seem that we have come full-cicle back to Photoshop where this how-to make a photo book began. There may be other image editing software out there that have the same or similar capabilities but I have been a Photoshop user since 1991 so this old dog don't want to have to learn any new tricks.

no category / # 3585 ~ bird in the hand

a bird in hand is worth …. ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

THE FIRST THING TO UNDERSTAND ABOUT MY “SECRETS” FOR MAKING photo books is that there are no secrets. The simple fact of the matter is, assuming you are able to create good quality image files (cuz who wants a photo book comprised of crappy looking pictures), making a photo book is not a very complex endeavor. The most difficult step in making a photo book is likely to be figuring out how to navigate / utilize the book making software on any given online POD (Print On Demand) photo book making site. That written, while there are no secrets to the making of a photo book, I do have some very strong opinions on the making thereof ….

LAYOUT / DESIGN (fine art / body of work / portfolio) … first and foremost, I am a devotee of the classic monologue format of most “fine art” photography photo books - a very simple / clean / iMo, elegant 1-picture per page layout with each page having the same size picture with an ample page-white surround / border. My reason for that design approach is that a photo book is all about the pictures and, to my eye and design sensibilities, anything that detracts visually from an emphasis on those pictures is a distraction. A simple, repetitive layout creates a relaxed visual “rhythm” to the photo book viewing experience, freeing the eye and the mind from the constant perceptual “readjustments” encountered in a more “creative” layout presentation.

typical “fine art” spread with page-white borders

typical “fine art” spread with page-white borders

LAYOUT / DESIGN (“family” photo album / travelogue) … the only difference between my “fine art” design ideas and my “family photo album" design ideas is that I ignore my 1-picture per page rule inasmuch as some pages have 4 pictures per page. Those pictures are ganged together much like individual prints might be grouped together on a single traditional photo album page. However, ample page-white space still applies.

In all of my photo books, the pictures pages are bracketed by a title page, copyright page and artist statement page in the front end of the book and a lifesquared logo page at the back end of the book. The front and back covers are usually a single full-bleed pictures selected from the work in the book.

travelspread.jpg

typical travelogue spread

typical title / statement pages

typical title / statement pages

typical covers and spine

typical covers and spine

OTHER DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS …. sequencing and number of pictures. Re: number of pictures. There is no hard and fast rule regarding the number of pictures. However, do keep in mind that the more pictures there are, the more apt you are to lose a viewer’s full attention. My rule of thumb is to include 20-30 pictures in a fine art / body of work / portfolio photo book with 20 pictures being the “ideal” number. In theory, when it comes to family photo albums / travelogue photo books, the sky is the limit. That and the cost of the book, which can rise substantially as the number of pages increase.

Re: sequencing …. sequencing is a tricky subject for me. Whether or not a photo book needs sequencing of any particular kind is up to the book creator. For me, other than my travelogue photo books which I sequence on a timeline approach, starting at the beginning of a trip and sequencing thru to the end of a trip, I don’t pay particular attention to sequencing in my fine art / body of work / portfolio books. Inasmuch as I am not trying to tell a “story” in those books, but rather, trying to create an “impression”, I don’t feel that the sequence with which the pictures are presented is very important. Although, in some cases, I might look at a 2-page spread (1 picture per page) and decide that, for one reason or another-predicated on my eye and sensibilities-the pictures do not “work” well together. At which point, one picture or the other is moved to another page and replaced with a picture which is less visually disruptive to the spread. For me, it ain’t science, it’s all about the “feel”.

CHOOSING A POD PHOTO BOOK SOURCE AND WORKING WITH THEIR BOOK CREATION SOFTWARE …. There are 2 types of POD photo book sources: a.) those that cater to the average consumer, and, b.) those that cater to “serious” amateur / fine art picture makers and professional pictures makers. Both sources are capable of delivering very good quality photo books. That written, there are some significant differences between the 2 sources.

The first difference, and for some the most important difference, is cost. Those sources which cater to the average consumer tend to be much lower in cost ($-$$), some are significantly lower, than those sources which cater to the “serious” / professional picture maker ($$$$-$$$$$). iMo, unless you are creating a "keepsake" photo book with a lot of bells and whistles, many average consumer souces produce excellent quality-printing and materials-photo books that will more than satisfy most pictures makers who are looking for a very good quality photo book.

The second difference between the high roller (more choices) and average consumer (fewer choices) sources is the number of options available for the making of a photo book. Things like paper choices, cover finish choices, binding choices and the like. And, in the case of Shutterfly (and maybe others?), their 6-color printing option (as opposed to the industry standard 4-color printing), which, as I can atest, is well worth the extra cost.

The other difference amongst all sources is their photo book making software. In some cases, photo book making is done all online using the source's software. Some others require that you download their software to your computer. I can also write from experience, some software is rather intuitive to use while other software will make you crazy.

In any event, it's free and easy to "test drive" most POD photo book sources' software. Case in point, Shutterfly. Just go to the site, set up an account (no cost or downside), upload some pictures and have at it. Assembling a book does not require that you print the book. So, there is no cost unless you print the book.

This entry has gone on long enough. In the next entry, I will devulge a couple of kinda real "secrets". One that makes all POD photo book making software very easy to use and another that will save you money.

kitchen sink / around the house / the new snapshot - #3582-84 ~ pricking the un-thought known

(embiggenable) • iPhone

socially distant ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

(embiggenable) • iPhone

WHENEVER THE IDEA OF "READING" OR FINDING "MEANING" in a photograph comes up, I am reminded of a quote attributed to Gen. George S. Patton in the movie, PATTON:

You know General, sometimes the men don't know when you're acting.
Patton: "It's not important for them to know. It's only important for me to know."

However, in my head, it goes lke this....

You know Mark, sometimes viewers don't know what the meaning of/is in your pictures.
Me: "It's not important for them to know. It's only important for me to know."

And, more or less, what I know is that, picture making wise, I am (primarily, not exclusively) a formalist. I.E., I place an emphasis on form over content or meaning in my picture making and, to be certain, in all of the arts. Add to that the idea that I am also a sensualist inasmuch as, re: picture making and the arts in general, I tend to make pictures-and view / appreciate art in general-which prick the physical sense of vision, aka: seeing, rather than to stimulate the mind. That is, to instigate feelings rather than thoughts when a viewer encounters my pictures.

That written, I certainly understand that feelings can, and most often do, lead directly to thoughts. Which is pretty much how our wiring works. But, when it comes to making pictures and viewing art, I have been, iMo, fortunate to have been able, to quote Bagger Vance, "to learn how to stop thinking without falling asleep."

A practice which I believe is most valuable to the "understanding" of art.

landscape / # 3579-81 + coronavirus book ~ appearances can be deceiving

Vermont ,through a dirty window ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

tee and green, severe dog-leg left ~ # 6 / Whiteface Golf Club (embiggenable) • iPhone

coronavirus ~ pandemic pictures ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

RECEIVED MY coronavirus pandemic pictures PHOTO BOOK AND I AM quite pleased with it. The softcover book, made by PARABO.PRESS is 8x8" with 20 pages + covers, containing 32 pictures. In all respects, the quality of the book is first rate.

My next entry will delve into my ideas and "secrets" regarding photo book making. However, I will spill one "secret" in this entry ...

While I don't make a lot of BW / monochrome pictures, when I do, the last processing step in my prep for printing-photo print or photo book-is to convert the Grayscale image file to RGB. Which, on the face of it, might seem rather counter-productive inasmuch as, in most cases, the first step to a creating a digital BW / monochrome image file is to convert an image file from RGB to Grayscale. However ....

... back in the day, in the world of the printing press, if one wanted a truly "rich" printed-on-paper BW / monochrome image, converting a Grayscale image to color space-CMYK for the printing press-was the way to go. The difference between a picture printed with just black ink-the "K" in CMYK-and the same picture printed with CMYK-C(yan)M(agenta)Y(ellow)K(black) was VERY significant. Consequently, high-end fine art BW / monochrome photography books were almost always printed with color inks.

And, I can atest that the same holds true today in the online POD photo book world. I always, to include the coronavirus book, send RGB files to the printer. Additionally, all of my BW / monochrome photographic prints are made with RGB files.

FYI, unless you look at the printed page in a photo book with a high magnification lupe, the picture will appear to the eye as a "pure", color-neutral Grayscale image. And, BTW, if you are into making warm or cool tinted Grayscale images, the best way to do it is with a Grayscale image file converted to RGB using CURVES in Photoshop.

PS I made the putt for a par on # 6 and went on to finish my 9-hole round-the first of the season-at even par.

landscape / # 3576-78 ~ taking a drive and trying to keep it simple # 3

looking at Vermont across Lake Champlain ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

on a drive along Lake Champlain ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

on a drive along Lake Champlain ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

MOVING RIGHT ALONG, RE: TRYING TO KEEP IT SIMPLE, to Step 3, making a "proof" print. And, similar to the use of CURVES as part of the process of creating a good quality image file, the making of a proof print could be presented in a very complex / detailed manner. Nevertheless, I am trying to keep it simple, so.....

Making a so called proof print is no different from making a print. Making a print requires: 1st) a decent photo printer, and, 2nd) installing the print software that comes with it. No big deal. The bigger deal is understanding how to create a simple and repeatable printing flow. Which, actually, is not that big a deal.

When I have an image ready for printing, I print directly from Photoshop by selecting PRINT from the dropdown EDIT Menu (I use a keyboard shortcut). Selecting PRINT opens up the Photoshop Print Settings dialogue panel in which I select the name of the printer + the paper profile (installed in your system by the printer software) in the Printer Profile dropdown menu and also select Photoshop Manages Colors in the Color Handling dropdown menu. There are other parameters to set in Print Setting-paper size, etc.-but the important settings are Printer Profile and Color Handling.

After making the settings, hit PRINT and you are off to the races. The resultant print-assuming you have created a good quality image file and entered the correct settings in the Photoshop Print Settings -will be a proof print which very closely simulates what the picture will look like in a printed photo book.

The reason for that outcome is, to put it VERY simply, saving images file to ABODE RGB (1998) + calibration (of your monitor which allows for reasonable WYSIWYG image file processing) + the use of the proper color profiles when making a print will produce a print that will look like the picture will look like when printed on virtually any other calibrated device. Meaning, any device from drugstore printers to a photo book printing press. The simple fact is that, in the digital photography domain, almost every device is fully capable of "talking" to any other device in a "language", aka: calibration+profiles, that they all understand.

CAVEAT Understand that by trying to keep it simple, there a quite a number of variables in the chain-from camera to print-which can't be covered here. None of those variables should be difficult to recognize and deal with.

kitchen life / around the house / # 3573-75 ~ trying to keep it simple addendum

(embiggenable) • iPhone

late afternoon light ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

late afternoon light ~ (embiggenable) • iPhone

A FOlLOW UP TO THE PREVIOUS ENTRY, re: TRYING TO KEEP IT SIMPLE.

Hintsight being 20/20, it occurred to me that, while I wrote about using the Photoshop CURVES for image file adjustments, there was precious little detailed info about how to use the tool. The reason for that was simple inasmuch as I was trying to keep it simple. That reason plus the fact that I had no desire to get into the how-to stuff which can get fairly complex and/or, lazy wise, way too time consuming to write.

So, making amends wise, here's a link to the Adobe CURVES how-to page.

FYI, the best way to learn how to use the CURVES tool is to use it. To be safe, make a duplicate image file and just start screwing around with the tool. It really isn't rocket science, athough it might seem to be at first glance. And remember, in addition to global adjustments (the entire image), you make selections of any area, large or small, of the image and make adjustments to just that selection area. In either case, you can see on screen what your screwing around does to an image and , if you don't like it, you can just undo it.

# 3570-72 ~ trying to keep it simple

(embiggenable) • iPhone

(embiggenable) • iPhone

(embiggenable) • iPhone

STEPs 1 / 2 ARE ARGUABLY THE SECOND-MOST IMPORTANT STEPS, not only for photo book making, but for all of picture making. The first-most, of course, being one's personally unique vision.

That written, there are a zillion and a half words, books, websites, et al devoted to the subject of the techincal aspects, aka: techniques / mechanics, of making good image files. Making good image files is, in fact, a 2-step procedure involving what one does with his/her picture making device and how the resulting image is processed. There are thousands of ideas regarding how to best manage that 2-step procedure. There are some-those who would like to be your (paid) instructor-who try to make the procedure seem as complicated as possible.

I am not one of those "masters-of-(whatever)". My M.O. is to keep it simple, stupid. So, my intention in giving away my "secrets" (for free, no less) is to keep it as simple as possible. So....

ASIDE....here's where I might lose some of you. I have one single tool-other than the careful use of my picture making device-for making good image files. That is the CURVES tool in Photoshop (and I might add in Snapseed which I use for processing on my iPhone / iPad). The reason I might lose some of you is that I know not everyone has Photoshop or image editing software that has a CURVES tool. END OF ASIDE

STEP 1: using the picture making device. a) The primary consideration in making an image file, aka: a picture, is to protect the highlights. That is, use an exposure setting which keeps detail in the highlights. There is nothing worse, iMo and to my eye and sensibilities, than a picture with "blown-out" highlights. Don't worry about the shadows at this point cuz' they can be "rescued" in the processing step.

b) with my real "camera", I set my picture making values to as neutral as possible ... "normal" contrast, neutral color, etc. Although, when making RAW files (which is what I always do), one has the option at the processing step to apply whatever values suits one's vision.

And that's all there is to it. Really. When I use a "real" camera to make a picture, all I ever do is set the aperture and shutter speed, focus and activate the shutter release. When using my iPhone, I touch the screen to select focus point and exposure (adjust if needed) and then activate the shutter. In either case, my M.O. thought is, why make it more complicated than that?

STEP 2: processing the image file. When making RAW files, this is a 2-atep procedure. First, one needs to use a RAW Conversion software to convert the file to a "standard" file format. At this point, drawing upon all of the raw data the picture making device sensor captures, one can adjust exposure, contrast, color balance, sharpening, saturation, rescue highlight / shadow detail and more (most, if not all, conversion software have a CURVES tool). Shooting RAW and converting to a standard format is considered to be, rightfully so, the absolute best way to make the best possible image file.

That written, I use a RAW conversion software for "broad"-strokes adjustments. After conversion, I do my "fine-tuning" adjustments in Photoshop. Most of my fine-tuning is done with the CURVES tool and most of the CURVES use (as well as any application of the SHARPEN tool) is performed in LAB color space . Convert back to RGB and save.

When I use my iPhone, my processing is also a 2-step procedure....typically, on my iPhone, I use Snapseed to recover / enhance highlight detail and open up the shadows if needed. Save the file and then download to my desktop machine and fine-tune in Photoshop using CURVES and LAB color space. Convert back to RGB and save. FYI, all of my image files are saved with Adobe RGB (1998) color profile which is has a wider color gaumet than sRGB IEC61966-2.1.

Processing addendum: processing image files is best performed on a calibrated monitor / screen. Since I am Mac-based, I keep it simple and use the Color Calibration tool found in DISPLAYS in the System Preferences window. I then use the calibration profile to be the RGB Working Space in Photoshop's Color Settings. end of Addendum

The above screen grab depicts a CURVES dialogue graph-derived from the accompanying picture-which has my "typical" after processing image file profile. Note that neither the shadow end (bottom left) nor the highlight end (bottom right) of image content bump up against-but come close to-the sides of the graph box. In very simple terms, what this indicates is that the image files contains tonal information that ranges from about a 10% black value to about a 95% white value. That means that the printed image will have will have a tonal range that is about as broad as the medium allows.

TIP: the dialogue box for a picture made on a foggy day whould be very different from the one depicted here. If one were to want a picture / print which accurately depicted the foggy day, the graph content of the image file would mostly likely have highlight detail limited to 230 on the scale and 40 or 50 on the shadow end. That would be because the actual scene had no high value higlights or deep, dark shadow tonal values.

From a technical viewpoint .... a digital image file's content is depicted in the CURVES dialogue box on a scale which goes from 0 (pure black - no detail) to 255 (pure white - no detail). In an ideal world a processed image file would have content which ranges from 10-250 which indicates that both the shadow and highlight content have some detail. Such a file will print-photo print or printed page in a photo book-as a rich, full range picture.

All of the above written, I have tried to keep it as simple as possible to make it easy to understand. Nevertheless, you may have questions which I will try to answer.